Time To Leave

Lethem's electricity used to be generated from the Moca Moca Hydroelectric generator build by the Chinese, but a landslide destroyed it a few years ago. Now it all comes from a giant diesel generator just opposite the Takatu Hotel. I hear it's hum boring itself into my brain during the still of the night and at breakfast in the morning. But electricity is not guaranteed. Outages happen daily and frequently. One quickly learns to save their work on the computer often and always carry a torch. It's all part of the Lethem charm!

It's Sunday - everything's closed. Nay, everything's dead. I walk about in the midday dry heat. I'm walking in a silent ghost town. There is not a whisper of life, be it human or otherwise. I find it both un-nerving and relaxing. I try the CyberCafe a couple of times but it's either closed, has no power or has no Internet (lousy satellite connection).

I must leave Lethem and Guyana altogether or I'll never escape. Guyana is the last frontier and has endless possibilities for adventure. I've met so many friendly people and they all seem eager to keep me around. But I've been here too long already. Locals are beginning to take an interest in me. As I become a recognisable face I'm no longer just someone passing through but someone it may be advantageous to know. Tomorrow I need to make an escape plan.

Along my meanderings I pass the Canadian girls' Guest House. They're bored too and plan to go to a leather shop for a look around and to place an orders for handmade bags. Only en-route I find out it's Charlo's place (Happy Days Ranch owner)! I already know it's no shop, just his house, there are no pre-made products to browse and that he has a huge back log of orders to get through. I just hope he doesn't feel pressured to meet the girls demands because I'm there. But it's cool, it seems he's far too busy to even contemplate more work! Colette (his wife) is from the Wapishan Tribe and has published a Wapishan / English dictionary. She gives me a personal signed copy. Wow! I feel real honoured and tell her so. I chat and laugh for a bit with Charlo, Colette and Trophy (their son), turn around and notice the girls standing quiet and awkward by the door. Oops, I think I just hijacked their visit!

After dinner (meat stew and rice) at T & Ms (the ice-cream place) we chat on the girls' balcony at the Guest House and I learn, apparently, how easy it is for a whitey to get with a local in GT. They offer to take me out the next time I'm there.

That night I dream I die. I'm fishing and when I cast out my line gets hooked in the rotors of a passing helicopter. I'm then quickly winched up into whirring blades above! Post death I become a ghost and meet an old friend who died a few years ago (Matt Bloom, you're not forgotten!). It seems all my mates are being assassinated in suspicious accidents and we must avenge their deaths to gain eternal peace! I tell ya, some nights, bed time is the best part of the day!

Posted by Steve Eynon