The Road to Lethem

I get up and completely unpack / dismantle everything I own looking for my bank card, but to no avail. Bollocks. I really have lost it. I repack all my kit and head to the Oasis cafe. It seems to be the expat place to be.

I must mention the Georgetown taxis. Essentially any vehicle whose licence plat starts with a H is a taxi (e.g. HB 324). Better than that, they all have oversize bass speakers fitted in the back and you're treated to a sonic experience of whatever favourite tune the driver happens to be playing. Reggae, Rock, Hip Hop, Celine Dion, Abba, whatever. Well it's that or talk politics. The Guyanese love to talk politics with us Brits, as ever since they "gained" their Independence from us everything has stopped working.

So now I've proved I'm a jungle survivor, what do I do now? Well, Bushmasters (Ian and Sarah) have kindly asked me to join them for a week in the South Rupununi whilst they visit some friends on a real live cattle ranch. That's right, I'm to become a Cowboy for a week, riding horses, lassoing calves, rounding cattle and heading out on anti-rustling patrols. (Rustling man, this shit really happens!) Or as the Portuguese call Cowboys, a Vaquero. Ye haa!

The ranch is a 4x4 ride away from Lethem. To get to Lethem it's an overnight bus which means I've a day to kill. Internet at Oasis is down so I end up chatting to Gavin and his bird who I briefly met last night. Gavin is an Irish student who's volunteered to do HIV/AIDS counselling for 2 years. His girlfriend, and subsequent other American friends who turn up, are on a 1 year teaching placement. Gavin is extremely interested in everything I have to say (for some reason?) and I'm happy to recite my recent adventures and impart my new found survival knowledge ("You see, cos when you're stuck in the Jungle all you need is...") The teachers and I head to Wendies for a drink or 2 before heading back to Oasis.

The bus departure time on the ticket is 7:30 pm, it's supposed to depart at 8:30 pm but actually departs at 9:30 pm. That's Guyanese efficiency for you! There isn't a bus station, just a bar! The bus service only started about a year ago. 15 minutes after we set off there's a kerfuffle on the coach between the 2 drivers and we head back to the bus station (well OK, the bar) where the driver shouts some abusive words out the window and drives off again!? Whatever!?

This ain't luxury coach either, it's a bus in every sense of the word. No individual reclinable seats, just static, hard benches! Sleep is hard to come by on this journey - especially as it's an off road dirt track all the way. Yep - this is the best road Guyana has to offer!

Posted by Steve Eynon